Friday, February 21, 2003

Flm, Fjords and foreign friends

Oslo to Bergen - across the rooftop of Norway
I got up at 6.30. A first for last 2 weeks. Packed my bags, sat on them again to close them. Ate breakfast (frokost). Stole Yoghurts. Stumbled down the stairs with all my bags ) they have no porters at the hotel and then I was rushed in a cab to the station.

My train to Bergen for the beginning of my "Norway in Nutshell" tour was leaving at 8am. OUCH!

Once onboard I realised I had a 4 seater area with a table all to myself. LUXURY!

The train soon rolled out of Oslo-S and on its way. Almost immediately the countryside was amazing. Awesome, stunning. I had been blessed again with uncommon beautiful weather. Azure skies not even flecked with a single cloud and snow as far as I could see. If only occasionally they would clean the sindows of public transport for snap happy tourists like me. (Please excuse any brown spots on my shots!)

The outer lying countryside from Oslo is wide and covered in a frosty blanket. It is truly sunning but catching a glimpse of a partially buried home once in a while I marvelled that it must be rather a harsh place to live in the "eye of winter".

The trip to my first stop, Myrdal was to take 3 and a half hours and that flew by so fast I couldn't quite nelieve my watch ( not that I can always trust my reading of it... I always mix up some of the times due to the lack of numbers!) At Myrdal I disembarked and joined a disjointed assortment of others bound across the platform to the Flms bana. The famous Flm railway is one of the steepest in the world ( excpet for funiculaires). It makes its way down from Myradal to Flm, a town on the fjords 800 metres below. I was really looking forwards to this, especially from Miriam and Dave's strong endorsement. I wt was beautiful and amazing (particularly the completely frozen waterfall.. but I did expect the rail to be steeper. I suppose I had been tainted by the train from Chamonix to Annecy that I took with Simon a few years ago. This train has you at an almost 45 degree angle. ( we took funny photos you can imagine!)

At the bottom I wasn't sure who else was supposed to be joining me on the tour. No one said anything. And when I walked to the water to meet my bpoat only to be told "its not running" I was mortified. What to do now!!!

It seemed there were 8 of us. And we had to wait. A bus was to pick us up and drive us to Auland to where the boat could run. At this part of the fjord the ice is too think and the boat couldn't enter.have a look for yourself!

The bus tool aeons for a town with nothing to do. Sure it was cute but in winter nothing is open except places to buy $800 dale of Norway knits or eat bad hotdogs. For a healthy outdoorsy nation they sure do love hotdogs. 2 hours later we were in Austerland and onto our boat - the fjord lord. Cold though it was on the outer upper deck, that where we all went. Me, a lovely OT from London called Kerri (who was also an orphan), a sweet boy from Korea with more bags that I could ever imagine to carry alone, 3 giggly Japanese students and 3 ever so quiet Spanish boys from Bilbao. ( I found this out later when one decied to actually speak).

The views from the fjord were breathtaking. I can't even explain. You will have to look at my shots! I am so pleased I came in the winter. Every single image of these areas in the guide books is a summer image. Green, lush and flowing I would love to also see this but I have reams of photos of this in every single Norway brochure I have collected. Instead I had the privilege of something unique. Harsh looming snow capped rock. Quaint doll house farms with smoke billowing from chimneys ( eople really LIVE here!!!)

It really made the Flm rail pale into insignificance. As the boat crackled through the surface ice we watched the sun set.
Soon once agin due to a "frozen fjord" we had to turn back. Another bus first the Grunevard and then to Voss and another wait. This time I succumbed to the Hotdog. It was that or a bad danish Pastry and I am in Norway - not Denmark - yet! Eventually it arrived and my new friend Kerri and I boarded the train. She is staying in Bergen so at the other end we said goodbye and swapped email addresses so we can swap photos of the fjords. I gathered my other new companions, helped Korean boy to put his bags in a locker and we set off for the Funiculaire to look over te rooftops of Bergen. The 5 of us were so dissappointed it wasn't running. The Japanese were particularly dismayed (they had prepaid for the privelege). With 2 hours to see Bergen we visited Bryggen (the beautiful old warehouses on the waterfront) and were surprised to see that the bBerbenese don't like to Floodlight their monuments. Tring to soot the Place and the warehouses in the low light I got some interesting blurred effects... they are OK I guess. Museums closed, Fishmarket over and beautiful winding cobbled streets walked, it was time for a drink... then back on board the train.

I have never been so pleased I booked a sleeper.... Though I was a little worried about who my companions would be ( 3 berth). On arrival in my cabin I put away my things, grabbed the key and then realised I couldn't make it work. After walking through 9 carriages to find the conductor It was a simple "jiggle" trick I wasn't aware of.

Luck would have it. I had booked the lower bunk (and the reading light didn't work) I was despeately covetinmg the centre one, (complete with the strap in belt system). There was noone else expected in my cabin. So for the price of a 3 I ended up with a one. WOOHOO.
One hot chocolate later and I was yucked up snug as a bug in a doona, 2 rugs and a strap in harness mmmmmm

I slept like a log until the 6.15 announcement that we were arriving in Oslo. Up in a flash to get dressed and close my blind so that people on the platform couldn't see in. packed and off to the dining car for a coffe... everything was awesome until one hitch. I couldn't open the door to the next compartment. I would be CRAP in a fire. I waited nearly 20 minutes for someone to get up and help me and even he had trouble! Thats what you get for paying for the cheap seats!

Back to my lovely hotel, rechecked in and freshly showered today has been about wandeing, shooting, galleries and tracking down the Norwegians who used to work in Singapore for a "maybe beer after work?" Spoke to Toro and now just waiting to hear....

Tomorrow... an even earlier start.... I am on a 6am train to Stockholm.. I guess Im up at 5 then. EXTRA OUCH!

jen at
10:11 PM

Wednesday, February 19, 2003

Dinner in Brick Lane

Breakfast, lingerie, Bedlam and curry
Up late we piled into Matt car to meet Mim, Dave, Em, Kristin and Shane for Breakfast in Marylebone. Little did me know it would take well over an hour to drive there with all the demonstrators scattered throughout London. What an amazing number of people. From every turn there were more and more walking for miles to the beginning of the march. Eventually we were there and had a wonderful breakfast of the type I have missed for years in Singapore. AS good old fashioned boiled egg, toast and mushies..
Mim Dave and I headed to Selfidges ( me for belt bag and bra) I was only mildly successful on one account! Dave was bored!
We continued up Oxford st to meet Jo at Agent provocateur, Dave decided he could do it so he went off to meet John to watch football and I made sure the shopping was done in record time. I didnt really feel like spending my last day on Oxford st.
Mim was the model and we purchased a beautiful pink balconet set for Becs trousseau.

A quick check for boring belts in Marks and Sparks but to no avail and we were off. Suddenly Mim remembered her hat.. now where was it. We retraced all out steps but it was gone.. and so were we dying! Due to the 1.5 million in town for the march the tubes were not functioning. There were no busses and taxis? I dont think so!
We walked and walked towards Angel where Dave was. Eventually after getting 3 quarters the way there we got a black cab Hurrah!

A couple of Brandies to defrost, some heated political conversations and some wig shots later we were in a cab and back at Matts. John who had previously been a man of wit had suddenly become pissed John (poor boy).

Curry in Brick lane was the order of the evening and Matt had promised to take me to the one Laurie took him to ( that he had also tried and failed to take us). It was all I had expected. Bollyywood murals complete with a Lady Di one!

Dinner was great. John was amusing and it was lovely to have my friends and family together for my last night.

Back home a cup of tea and a ferrero rocher later I was all tucked up in my very very comfy bed for one last time.


Leaving from Paddington on the Heathrow Express

DAY 1 - Up early to pack and then say all my goodbyes
Sunday and it's time to go. I woke very early concerned about trying to fit all my clothes into my bag. 7am, showered and ready I was sitting on my bag and eventually made it close. Matt and Paul got up in a panic they wanted to take me for coffee before carrying my bags and driving me to the station (how wonderful are they !)

We had a quick breakfast at apostrophee (my most recent local coffee hangout) then set off for Paddo. The boys hugged and kissed me goodbye and then they were gone. Once inside I checked in. got my bags through and organized a seat with extra legroom and there were Mim, Dave and Em.. YAY!

At this stage I was still feeling a little sick still so we went for breakfast and I had lemonade and we had a good catch up. By checking in at the station I gained 2 hours in my day. Dave went to check the football scores, we went to check the Internet and then we all met up again to get my ticket and shuffle me on board. The train took off and they waved goodbye. It was lovely seeing them this week.

When I got to Heathrow the queues to get in to departures were huge. It took me almost 40 minutes. Eventually we were on the plane only to find out that a passenger had lost her passport in the lounge and we had to wait for her. I was still feeling so tentative about flying. I was scared to death and being on a plane for any longer wasnt my idea of a good time.

The flight took off and whilst chanting and crossing my fingers I love you Simon, I love you Simon over and over we eventually made to safe distance above the clouds.

I didnt eat. I didnt drink. I just didnt feel like it.

I arrived at 8 only to be told that it was 8 outside. It didnt feel like it. Oslo Airport is lovely. A combination of wood, glass and steel great Scandinavian design as I would have expected.

On the Flytog (airport express train) to town in 15 minutes one cab with a Pakistani driver who loves Singapore later I am at my hotel. Its very very cute. I got upgraded because I wanted a no smoking room and I have a view of the Grand and the Ice rink outside my window.

Mmmmm tired now..


Frederick (18), Me (33) and Inger (55)

Day 2 Visiting Aunty Inger
Today IO got up late. I deserved it. All that rushing about. I needed sleep and besides I had already missed breakfast. When I did leave the hotel I set off for the Oslo S (central station), looked into the trip to Bergen for Norway in a nutshell, checked prices to Stockholm (and decided Norway is @#$%^& expensive) and then got my ticket to go to Asker to visit my godmother, Inger.
Driving out of Oslo was so very very beautiful. The sun was shining and the snow was gleaming. I only wish I had taken shots from the train. Boats moored were iced in and people were walking on the ice. I headed out to the west and disembarked at Sandvika. Inger told me to get a cab because it was a 10-minute walk on icy roads. The cab took 20 minutes and there is no way in hell I would have found THAT street alone!

There she was at the door just as she always looked in photos. It was so lovely to see her. We went inside and sat down and talked and talked. All our memories of each other from out correspondence and my parents yearly Xmas cards. She told me stories of Mum and Dad before I was born, of the school they all worked in in Scotland and shared my stories of what Mum had told me. I also remember from the photos that she was wearing a blue dress at my christening. Strange to think she was only 22 when I was born!

There were so many stories. Frederick came home and having remembered when he was born I was amazed he is a man now and a very handsome one too!

We kept swapping stories and probably much to Fredericks embarrassment Inger kept telling me stories of his childhood and showing me baby photos.

Finally she even told me the story of how she made me the most enviable girl in school when I was 16. I was a huge aHa fan in those days had the hugest crush ever on Morten Harkett ( who she tells me lives around the corner and has a new baby oh and a new album out since the band reformed last year).. and she got me his autograph, on the back of a receipt when she met him on a plane.

Although she always sent me the most wonderful gifts, that one was very special at the time and I still have it.

Berndt came home and we all talked more. Then a wonderful dinner, wine and crme caramel (and still I am eating like a bird with a funny tummy).

After dinner and more photos we talked a lot about Berndts ex girlfriends seems he was quite the lady killer and now Inger is friends with some of his exes!

Soon it was time to go. Being unwell her strength is not good and I didnt want to wear her out. Bernt drove me back to town ( he didnt need to do that!)
Inger gave me taxi money that I had to accept! And a beautiful gift an oak flask with a reindeer bone lid. It smells beautiful and I will treasure it forever.

Chatting on the way home to Bernt I decided he has a very dry sense of humour.

I fell into bed ready for a big day tomorrow. But as it is a full moon I found it hard to sleep yawn still very tired!


Skating opposite my hotel>

Day 3 High above Oslo
Another fabulous day (and I thought winter was supposed to be cold and bleak here!) Blue skies and although it was 12 when I woke it turned out to be a day of 0 degrees.
I decided to take advantage of the clear skies to see the view over Oslo. Taking the T-bane to Frognerseteren was a mission. The furthest and highest it goes. Actually the first train I took was the wrong one and so I had to back track by 4 stations but eventually I was on board. As we rose the snow got heavier on the buildings and trees. It really is a winter wonderland here.

The train was mostly filled with locals. Either on their way to some of the gorgeous picture book weather board home up the mountain or to the top to either ski or toboggan ( remember this is less than 25 minutes from the heart of Oslo b y public transport and in my case FREE PUBLIC TRANSPORT with my Oslo pass to be recommended).

At the top toboggans set off and I marveled at the view. You could see for miles out into the Oslo Fjord and further. Unfortunately the camera doesnt pick up all the details but I did try to take a panorama. Here I met my first conversation. An English guy and his Russian girlfriend. Still so far no daytime companions.
Next was the trip back down to Hollmankollen the Ski Jump. I always thought it looked horrifying on Eurosport but in reality it is awful. It is so very very high and steep and narrow and the landing area is tiny!
There was a corps of national service youths digging out the steps so there must be a competition soon.

Back down again with the locals and I headed to the Munch Museet. Having only really previously remembered the scream I was amazed how much of m y University Art History came flooding back on reviewing all his works. It is an amazing g collection and a must see. For those that know me well dont laugh too much when I say Rather than retrace my steps I decided to walk back into town. In Oslo people walk slowly. Why? Its is so very icy! I was quite tentative for much of the journey but also incredibly pleased with my $60 boots. They have great grip! On the way I discovered lots of new sights. Toyen seems to be a very multicultural area lots of People who made me feel right at home. From Pakistan, India and other Asian locations. I walked to Grnland ( shops and bars) and then by accident made a wrong turn and found Yongstarat and the coffee I had been desperately seeking. Ion a groovy but very busy I spoke to my second d person of the day. A photographic assistant called Camilla. A very beautiful girl and very cool who asked if she could join me as she couldnt find a seat!. She has suggested some places for me to go tonight so maybe Ill see what Oslo does in the evening. I am considering going to Bergen tomorrow.then I wont get back until Thursday but the ride does look amazing and the hotel will take care of my bags for me seems like an adventure waiting to happen!
jen at
7:22 AM


Norweigian friends>

Mono solo
I did it. I braved the night and headed out alone. My plan? No tourist bars. No dodby bars on the main street, no Old people places... I wanted a local laid back place. I asked aroung and headed back to Yongstorget, where I had been earlier in the day and once there I met a girl on the street twho pointed out *mono*. At first entering and being hit with an 80Kr entrance fee almost turned me away but i could tell that a band was setting up and its aeons since I saw any live music (especially in an intimate environment). I walked to the bar, remved all the layers again (I'm getting quite good at that) ordered a glass of wine and began to search for a place to plonk myself. The bar was very cute and cavelike. small with 2 main rooms with connecting archways. Low lighting sipplimented with red gels and the odd candle made it very moody. In the corner a girl was sitting alone on a comfy looking couch. She was reading (very bad for her in THIS light) so I went and asked if I could sit. She said yes and continued to read. I sat there with my wine and watched the locals. These Norwegians are a healthy looking lot aren't they!!!! Soon she got up to go to the bathroom and asked me to mind her belongings and I obliged. When she returned I struck up a conversation. It seems that she too was alone. Her boyfriend ( a student) was working late and she is up from her village to visit him. She is a dance, drama student and this band playing tonight was her favorite . I wish I knew their name!!!! perhaps I will find out today.

Anyway we chatted for a while and then I went to the bar for a round of drinks. When I came back she once again wasn't alone. She had been joined by another bar orphan. A copywriter by the name of Roger. Who would have ever thougt I would meet a Norwegian called Roger!!!!

Soon the band was playing. They were very cool. A little etherial but still rocky. A bit Portoisehead mixed with REM mixed with Dido mixed with Catatonia very hard to explain. The singer was a very cool girl with a pixieish head attachment that caught the light and the band were a group of obviously very talented slightly older bearded men. We stood and watched them for a while. It was great. Remended me of going to see Matt Ellis play in Sydney. I do believe that was the last intimate gig I saw. Actually they also reminded me quite a lot too of the Velvet Underground!!!!

Ida's boyfriend arrived soon actually whilst she was in the bathroom. She said *If a boy with messy black hair comes in then tell him I'll be back soon*. No w if you haven't been to Norway don't be fooled into thinking they are all pale blondes. I think they are supposed to be but there is a plethora of black messy haired lads here... it must be the fashion. Black hair and pale perfect skin. Within one minute of her leaving a black messy haired beannie wearing boy did come in. He looked a little lost so I scared the living daylights out of him by saying Hi Are you looking for Ida? I was right it was him... and my first attempt! They were all very impresed with my intuition.

I stayed a little while longer, chatting and then the travelling and all the smoke started to do my head in and it was time to leave.

EVERYONE SMOKES HERE EWWWWWW!!! Apparently from August it is being banned indoors. I can't imagine how cold it would be to have to go outside to smoke in Oslo! Today all my clothes reek so I have taken them to a laundromat to be washed before my big cold trip to Bergen tomorrow! Yes... I bought my ticket so now I have to go and then I will be back on Friday. I hope its not too too cold in the mountains. Now I do wish I had my ski jacket/pants.

jen at 8:24 PM

Sunday, February 16, 2003

Chadwell Heath - Aunty Rosie's appartment

A lovely afternoon chatting and egg sandwiches on a sick stomach
I was surprised to find that the train trip took me nowhere near as long as expected. Once at Liverpool St station and with 3 minutes to spare to buy a ticket and find platform 16 I was on my way. Heading out through parts of London I had never seen I came to Stratford and Ilford and the Forest gate where I believe my Dad grew up. I would love to see where he lived. Maybe one day he'll show me. I am very nostalgic about things like that. Strangely I had been looking on London maps for years for it and never found it until now.

A few stops more... reading my star signs on Valentines Day with a very nice lady beside me and I was in Chadwell Heath. As my A-Z doesn't stretch quite this far I went to the minicab office beside the station and they walked me out into the street to point out which way to go. "See the Tattooist down there on the corner? The one with the yellow sign? Turn left there and then its on the right just by the Barclays bank". Excellent I thought... who would have thought it could be so easy! This was the beginning of Chadwell Heath Lane... and I was looking for number 294.

I walked for ages and yesterday it was bitterly cold. Thank God for my new fleece! (My hat and scarfe also came in handy). Just as I was beginning to worry I found Rosewood court - a retirement "village"- and there was Aunty Rosie waiting at the door. At this point I was 30 minutes early, so I hope she hadn't been there for long.... Imagine if I had been late.

It was also lucky that I had seen photos of her before... I recognised her instantly. It took her a few minutes to orientate herself with "which one I was" and soon she remembered that I was the one she had met as a baby. She tells me I look a lot like you Dad "just like Bernie when he was young!". Intent on feeding me, much to my protestations that I didn't really want to test my stomach with food just yet, I settled on what seemed the plainest option.... an egg sandwich and a cup of tea. Otherwise it would have been fish and chips, custard and pudding, Danishes etc.... and I just know what would have been the fate of those!

We chatted for ages. I showed her my photos she showed me hers. She also showed the most poetic valentines card she had received from a "young man that she had met on a cruise". She also showed me his photo. She is doing well for a woman of her age... but as she so rightly says " I don't look my age do I". (She is almost 80... so NO she doesn't look anywhere near that).

I had a lovely afternoon. I am so glad I went. I only wish that I could have been feeling a little sparkier so that she could have fed me to her hearts content. Now I just have to find a way to repay her the 10 she insisted I take "because she has never given me anything in all these years". I felt dreadful taking it from her but she wouldn't have a bar of it.

Just before I left Aunty Jean came home so I had the pleasure of meting her too. She seems to be doing very well having regained a lot of mobility since a debilitating stroke 3 years ago. She lives next door and is taken care of by Rosie. Together they make quite a team and in between them discussing my family and then discussing their days they had that cute Aunty thing of talking about you while you are there "isn't she beautiful" " a credit to her Mum and Dad" " she's lovely 'int she"

A lovely afternoon. I have promised to return sometime soon and will let Rose take me out for a big meal :) One day I'll take Simon to meet them too. They really were very sweet. Now all I need to do is send them some prints of the pictures and keep in touch.

Last night Mim and Dave came up to town to meet me and we went for dinner at "Rivingtons in Hoxton". It was very lovely. Apparently it is owned by the same people who run the IVY. Upmarket fish fingers and hamburgers later (washed down with some Chilean red wine) AND MY STOMACH WAS OK! We were heading back to my place when an SMS from Em alerted them to the fact that she was actually expecting them for dinner - hours ago. Feeling horribly guilty (poor Em had gone to all that trouble) they rushed back to Fulham.

This morning I am up horribly early. Packing for the trip and washing and then out for brunch with everyone. Matt, Paul, Shane, Mim, Dave and Em. Then theres the Peace March.... We'll see :)


jen at 4:23 PM

 

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