Tuesday, February 25, 2003

Stockholm

Last day and now the sun shines!!!
Please excuse any weird spelling you may be seeing in my blogs. These European keyboards seem to change every city I go to and though I type it correctly, when I opublish some of the letters seems to get all stuffed up!

Have checked out of my hotel and am now quickly online after putting my bags in the station lockers and am finding some accomodation for tonight in Copenhagen.
Today the sun is shining so I'd better go and get me some rays". I went out last night into the terribly cold night air and eventually found quite a cute little bar on Gotgarden in Södermalm.(yay a keyboard with the ö) It was called Fenix and seemed to be the first bar that had anyone inside that was under 75. (perhaps its being a sunday night didn't help much!) Anyhow I bought a glass of wine and then after surveying the room for ages, watching the Osbournes on the TV (with no sound) reading a Swedish bodybuilding magazine (in Svensk) and NOT TALKING TO A SOUL bar the bartender when I ordered my drink, I left.

Whilst Stockholm is grand and lovely so far the Swedes haven't proven to be a very warm or welcoming race (at least not as warm as the Norweigians). I suppose its a little like comparing Sydney and Adelaide. Stockholm is grand and magestic with lovely water veiws ( albeit frozen ones at this time of the year). Finding things is hard as they are all spread out and people aren't so interested that you are from somewhere else. They are busy busy!! Oslo on the other hand seemd a little more arty. A bit more grungy with little hidden pockets to find interesting bars and cafe's. Without the views that Stockholm has and without the size it must rely on character.

Anyhow.. this is my observation after only a few days in each and I suppose also by taking the tour to Bergen and actually knowing a few Norweigians it makes the place all that bit more friendly.

So what now then? I don't know anyone in Denmark (so send me phone numbers if you do)... Or Hamburg or Amsterdam or Paris... I'd love to buy any of them a beer just for the chance to have a chat again!

Today? A couple of galleries then onto another 5 hour train (hope its as luxurious as the last one!)

Oh and of course... More photos no doubt!

People I spoke to in Sweden:
- Receptionists at hotel x 3
- 3 different peopleat information counter in Centralstation
- ticket booth operators at a) central station, b) Dans Museet c) Sightseeing bus tour d) egyptian exhibition e) T station at Central station
- Waitress at restaurant in Gamla Stan
- Bartender at Fenix
- Coffee bar attendant at Ginos in Gamla Stan
- Boy in the street I asked for directions
- Man who said hi at Museum
- Girl and cook at Thai restaurant.

Thats it!!!!


jen at 11:01 PM

Monday, February 24, 2003

Faces from Gamla Stan

Swedes, and sleep

After little more than an hour and a half sleep I was suddenly back at Oslo ÐS for the last time. The lush express train to Stockholm left at 6.15 and as usual when I got onboard it was an almost empty carriage but with me sitting next to someone. I waited till the train moved and garnered myself a seat aloneÉ by a window. My previous window seat had the window filled inÉ thereÕs no point training it to Stockholm if IÕm not to see anything.

My previous seatmate also moved and we spent quite a lot of the 6-hour trip chatting. His name eludes me but heÕs from British Columbia (Canada) and is a forest Firefighter. It seems that this part of the world is a lot like home. (it baffled me that he would come here then. I was filled with awe at every deer, every frozen pond and every glade of Xmas treesÉ much to his amusement.

I arrived in Stockholm at 11 and immediately realized just how much bigger this city was from the last. My bags are also just too heavy! (more on that later!)

A taxi ride across the bridge, through Gamlastan (the old town) to S¿dermalm ( this should have an umlaut but I canÕt find it on the keyboard!) and I was at my very very cute hotel. Luckily for me my room is on the 3rd floor ( which meant 4 flights of winding stone steps. I had to make 2 trips. I am SO going to send more home!!!!!

Although I had wanted a nap once inside all I wanted to do was to take pictures. The window of my room is a small dormer and through it is the magical view in my gallery. Spidery winter tree branches mask the sky and trough them is the spire of St Katerines kirck. A gorgeous baroque church with a snow covered graveyard.

I redressed, washed m y face and went to explore.
The winding back streets near my hotel had a mixture of imposing apartments and historical ÒprotectedÓ wooden cottages from the earliest settlements on the island ( the largest in Stockholm) but suddenly they opened out to an amazing view of Stockholm. 180 degrees of old cultural buildings interspersed with the greened copper spires of a number of churches and state buildings. WOW!

Walking through the cobbled back streets of Gamla Stan I started to take pictures of all the textures. This place is a goldmine.

I made it a long way. Through the old town (winding my way backwards and forwards, past the Royal Palace, up Drottinggarten teeming with tourists and shops to suit them and to the Central station (yes I was here earlier!). I purchased my ticket to Copenhagen, checked my emails and then got a tube home. A small nap later and I was starvedÉ but what to eat? Unlike the expected Smorgasbords all I can see to see are hamburgers, kebabs, Hotdogs and pizza (unless I want to spend a fortune!) The receptionist suggested Thai mmmmm so I went for a walkabout, walked into and out of two other restaurants that after 10 minutes hadnÕt even spoken to me let alone served me.. Checked out the local bars and then got takeout to eat in front of a movie in my room. I needed a night like that.. I crashed hard at 12É two days of sub 6am starts and I was dead!

Yawn!


Nordic to the extreme

Stockholm on foot

Photos photos photos! Up early, first to see what was fro breakfast ( hungry for fruit) but also curious to see who else is in the hotel ( are there any groups I can hang out with? Or even speak to?

NoÉ. Not one. Couples and families L It is hard when you donÕt know a soul in a cityÉ but Oh wellÉ I quite like my own company. I organized my day. Walk around S¿dermalm then back to Gamlastan the to some galleries and museums before taking the sightseeing bus tour.

All went pretty much to plan. Loads of pics taken as I wove my way around the western part of S¿dermalm. 2 hours later I was in Gamla Stan. I stopped in Ginos coffeeÉ a cute cafŽ with big cushions out the back for a much needed warming latte and biscotti and called home. Traveling as I am I have lost all concept of date and time. I spoke to Mum and Dad for a bit and it wasnÕt until an hour later that I realized it was dadÕs birthday 2 days ago. I think this is the first time I havenÕt called him with wishes and love. I feel dreadful. I donÕt think thatÕs makeupable.

DADÉ IÕm SORRY!!! HAPPY BIRTHDAY I LOVE YOU!!!!!

I also spoke to Matty. Dammit heÕs not in Stockholm! He gave me lots of pointers though and seemed surprised that I already knew my way around!

The afternoon comprised the bus tour, which as not only extremely enjoyable and informative, it was warm and comfortable. Next saw the Egyptian exhibition at a museum. I had missed the one at the London museum so I was thrilled to see their collection of Mummies and sarcophagi ( they also have a Tutankhamen exhibition on currently) I love all that stuff. I also actually spoke to someone this afternoon. A well-dressed man seemed to always be in the same rooms as me at the gallery. I later worked out he was following me. After an hour and half of this he attempted a passing commentÉ in SwedishÉ.so I told him I didnÕt understand! I expect he was trying to pick me upÉ no luck for him J (donÕt worry SimonÉ I lost him fast!)

A late lunch/early dinner later at a place I think Matty recommended (Tortellini with tomato and sage sauce stuffed with ricotta and spinach, which I chose form a Swedish only menu and worked out all by myself) when I realized I couldnÕt find my wallet. All day today I have had a slimmed down wallet in my pocket so I Òfreaked outÓ. I emptied my bag realizing that not only will I be ÒstuffedÓ without it for the rest of my trip, but I also canÕt even get a train home. I walked back with everything crossedÉ all 20 of my carpals and tarsels. Back at Columbus and 4 flights of stairs later all red and puffy (and not just because of my jacket) I started the search. For some reason I donÕt recall I had left my wallet behind (thank god) and put it in a safe placeÉ one of those Òsafe placesÓ that mean you just canÕt find it for ages!

I did find it then. PHEW! Now I need to recoup. Download my pics and read the guidebook. IÕm going to go out for a quick drink on my last night in Sweden but an early oneÉ. Its only 8 now and I think IÕll be tucked into bed by 10. Maybe IÕll meet some nice locals tonight. So far? No good L
jen at 2:27 AM

 

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